Saturday, December 23, 2017

Green Satin Flower Bustle Dress

Hello all,

I know, I know... I'm a really baaad blogger.
Over a year I haven't posted anything, is anyone even around here anymore?

Well today I want to share this year's big dress project with you (before this year is already over again, where has the time gone?)

As every year I made the dress for WGT at Whitsun, starting somewhere early this year, with rough plans made and stuff shopping late last year already. As I had to make some new underwear to go with it, I started on the actual dress around March or so.

The main inspiration was this lovely green flowery printed satin I gathered up in Paris last spring.
I wanted to make an overskirt that would show the print as much as possible.
As I has gotten some new books by Francis Grimble (covering the years from 1885 to 1889) I found some nice skirt patterns that would work. So I settled my dress time to the very late 1880s.

That's why I needed to make some new underwear as well... a new corset, another combination and two pairs of drawers to match my existing chemises.
I made my short bustle a bit bigger and added a new petticoat for more rear fluff.

The foundation skirt made of black cotton is a plain 4 gore pattern from 1886. The back is held in place by two sets of ties underneath.
On top of the foundation I put a pleated panel of cotton satin. It's been some stuggle to get the hem even on it.

For a first impression of the overskirt I simply draped the whole satin piece on my dressform.

Then using some instructions for a similar skirt from my books, I made a rough sketch of the overskirt pattern. I needed it to be in one piece with the hem untouched.
Looks weird, I know.
So I took out my trusty Bomull and made a test to see how much of the satin I needed.

After figuring out the length I cut it and matched up the lining fabric. I basted the layers together every 10cm to keep them from shifting and slipping.
I closed the only seam and tried my luck in pattern matching.
I then cut the shape I had made with the Bomull and draped it on the dressform until I was happy with it. The side pleats are fixed with tape to maintain their shape and fall when moving.

Next on the bodice. I thought I could use the pattern from my last dress and cut directly in the fashion fabric, but appearently the new corset had lowered my waistline about 4cm. Fortunately I had enough fabric to recut the bodice, after changing the pattern.

I had wanted to decorate the bodice with green beads and sequins matching the over skirt, so I ordered some lace appliques and had to wait.

In the meantime I made the hat and the sleeve cuffs. These I kept separate until they were decorated before basting them to the sleeves.

I also made a matching necktie for my boyfriend from the green flower satin.

After the lace appliques arrived I cut them and pinned them on the dressform to the desired look.
Everything was handstitched in place and then beaded and sequined. This took me many hours (almost 60 I guess) and just as many episodes of different tv-shows.

I'm really happy how the dress turned out.
And of course here are a couple of pictures of the whole outfit worn.

Thank you again for reading.

I wish you all a   Merry Christmas!

Have a great time with your loved ones.

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