Thursday, August 20, 2015

Time Travelling - the Lady

Hello again,

as promised here's the post about my outfit to go with the victorian suit.

I don't have any progress pictures, as time had been tighter then and I started working on it while also still making the frock coat and waiting for fittings.

The dress is also late victorian inspired, but with a little more modern/ steampunky twist, so not historical correct.
It's concipated to be worn without a corset but still holding the typical Natural Form silhouette.
As I knew that I wanted to make a matching dress, we had gotten more of the brown wool facric. Otherwise I wanted to use the left overs from the suit and stash materials. The blue dupioni silk I had in stash and I still have something left of it.

I started with the skirt. I again used my Natural Form Basis Skirt based on the Fantail Skirt pattern from "Fashion of the Gilded Age". The silk is rather thin, so I backed the panels with black cotton. I'ts all machine sewn, and closes with a hook in the back.

Next I made a blouse from the dupioni combined with a crêpe georgette I had in stash as well. I had bought it for my master's exam, but didn't use it then. The sleeves are made of it as well as the ruffles on the front and all edges. I cut them with the wave knife of my rotary cutter and left the edges to fray. I used the same buttons as for my boyfriend's waistcoat.

For the overskirt I combined 3 bustle patterns: for the apron I used a slightly altered Burda 7888 bustle dress apron, for the back I used my butterfly bustle pattern based on the instructions from Your Wardrobe Unlock'd and added the waterfall drapes from the Simplicity 1819 pattern. Two drapes I put on the sides and two I put in the back under the butterfly draping.
I used the woolblend from the trousers and the waterfall drapes are lined with brown duchesse, which I had ordered as lapel fabric for the frock coat. In the end we liked the plain wool better for the lapels, so this was left over. Yay for me ;)
In the end I added some antique brass butterflies.

Over it I made a waistcoat of brown wool. When making the black outfit for the master's ceremony, I thought that the bodice would make a nice waistcoat as well. So here I went with it.
I altered the pattern a bit around the armscyes and the witdh, and it did make a very nice waistcoat. It's also boned like a bodice to hold the shape.
Just as for the frock coat I got the buttons from work. They are actually for mens' tailoring and they had a huge load of button boxes from a donation (from a known suit designer brand) ready to be thrown away (!! blasphemy!!). So I took some of them home with me. The brooch is from my small jewelery stock and matches very well.

On top of it I made a short jacket. It's rather plain with a little standing collar in the back and a hook and eye closure in the front. It's adapted from a modern jacket pattern that I found in a Simplicity pattern magazine.

A proper lady of course also needs a hat.
The shape is based on the TV550 hat patterns and it's made of buckram, hatwire and covered with the brown wool fabric (there was just enough of it left). It's trimmed with ribbons and trims made of the other fabrics used for this outfit. Also I wanted to be able to wear it both steampunk-y and victorian. So I made an interchangable hat decoration that is fixed with press studs.

In addition I made a handbag to store all my stuff. It's made of the same pattern as the black one I made for my grey NF dress. Only the strap is longer to be worn over the shoulder, so I have my hands free.

And, just like I did for the suit, I made another brooch with gears for some more steampunk.

For the Wave Gotik Treffen at Whitsun I borrowed a lace parasol from work and wore a chain watch that I inherited from my Granny.
So here is the complete outfit (pic by Felix Brodowski):

And both costumes together (pic by Felix Brodowski):

Oh and inbetween I squeezed a pirate costume for my boyfriend's little one. (He didn't want "old clothes" as we had ^^)

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