Monday, July 18, 2011

I don't think we will become friends...

Hello my dear readers,

already another three weeks have passed since my last post... I hope my lack of action here doesn't bother you. I'm sorry for that anyway ;)

I haven't done overly much postworthy either.
The linen dress for my friend's girlfriend was fitted once and the alterations made. The missing pieces are almost all cut (only the facings are still to be done) and the hood attached. So it's now ready for the second fitting. As far as it looked during the first fitting, a third one hopefully won't be neccessary. So I hope to complete the dress within the next few weeks, depending on when we can have the fitting.

Otherwise I have made another corset sample. You remember the "Flesh Digger" corset?
As mentioned there I altered the pattern and started a new try. And I can pronounce that it fits so much better. There's still some slight digging in the back, but nowhere as much as before. I guess bending the flatsteels a bit more and some breaking in will help with that matter even more.
However with this sample I also used a decor technique I usually try to avoid, because I haven't been very lucky with it so far... piping.
And as the headline says, I'm still not overly happy with it... I need to improve my working ways with it, it seems. I'll show you pictures, so you can see what I'm talking about.

You see the fit is much besser... I've got some waist *lol*
But you can also see that the satin in quite wrinkly. I know that satin is kinda destined to wrinkle, but usually the thicker bridal satin behaves quite well (for satin anyways) when also interfaced with fusible cotton woven interfacing (I love that word ^^), short G710 (that's the black one). It did with the flesh digger, they both use the very same black bridal satin. Maybe flatlining it to the coutil there also made the difference, the cotton bunting I used here for flatlining is obviously too soft, it already shifted suspiciously when sewing the interfaced satin onto it.
But I guess part of it is also caused by the piping set in between the panel seams. I joined the pieces here by going by the seam allowance instead of stitch lines. It was quite difficult to set the piping at the right distance from the edge, as the ribbon of the piping was narrower than my seam allowance.
So next time I will probably go back to mark the stitch lines when using this ready made piping (and I had ordered 6 packs in different colors -well I ordered 4 and 2 bias ribbons, but they sent all as piping- in good hope of a friendship between me and the piping... -.-'). Also I had to try a few different presser feet to find the right one for joining the pieces with the piping inbetween. The open toe foot proved to be the best for that task.
Also the piping can be sewn on quite well with my concealed zipper foot (which I don't use for invisible zippers anymore^^), the cord passes right through the groove.
So I learned a lot of new things, besides that piping won't be my best friend anytime soon.
Also it kinda caused the corset to be about 1cm too big in the waist, a problem I have had before (about three or four years ago and there even more than just 1cm) and why I had gone back to sewing by stitchline after doing it by seam allowance (which is faster to cut and pin, but also less exact). When measuring the panels, it seemed that while attaching the piping I didn't always perfectly hit the seam line, so there the millimeters added. I could solve this problem by taking away a few millimeters at the CB when turning the edges there and sewing on the waistband very tight.
I know 1cm doesn't seem much and with a regular garment I wouldn't bother much, but in corsetry 1cm is like a whole world *lol*

Oh and I learned that I'm so not a fan of busk-less corsets. I really don't understand people who don't like busks. Sure they are not the easiest thing to sew in and add to the budget, but how the hell do you get in and out of your corsets?
I already used a longer lace (6m) in this, after getting stuck with my regular one (4.5 or 5m). Still I can hardly get in and out without disclocating my shoulders and wrench my back.
Also those many meters of lace will bundle up when fully laced and I don't know where to put that mass of lace then.
Do you fiddle the lace through the eyelets while you have the corset on already or how do you do it? Please enlighten me ;)

Still I have to admit that I like the closed front look in combination with the piping (one reason why I decided to try no busk, the other reasons were budget + the insecurity about how the piping would turn out) and I have a few more closed front designs planned, so I'd be very thankful if someone could help me with the dressing issue.

Okay, I guess that's is all I've got to say about this corset. If you have any questions or want to know more details, feel free to ask :) Also tell me what you think. I need more construtive critique, please.

Right now I'm working on another underbust corset. I can't tell anything about it yet as it is meant as a surprise. But know, that I'm not lazying around ^^

Thanks for reading, have a great time

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