Sunday, May 29, 2011

Stripey intermezzo

Hello my dears!

I'm sorry I have been mia so much again here recently, I just didn't get around to work on the pictures and post them here. Still I haven't been lazy these last 4 weeks.

Three weekends ago I decided to make a little "side project". The hat was done so far, I had to wait for the wigblock (I still do btw...argh) and my sister's birthday was ahead.

Some while ago she had asked me to make her a striped jacket like the one Rihanna wore in her "What's my name" video.
While she had visited in February, I already had ordered the fabric, so all I needed to do was making a pattern.

At first I wanted to draft it entirely myself, but then decided against it as I wasn't in the mood to draft a two piece sleeve with my pattern system. This is really annoying ^^. So thanks to Mommy, I now own two "old" (something early 2000ish) issues of Burda for petite sizes (sisterli and I run rather short, while Mommy needs the tall sizes -.-). She had sent them some weeks ago, when she went through her stack of magazines and sorted out what she wanted to keep and what to throw or give away. Thinking that I have the best use for short size patterns she send me three mags.

I looked through them and luckily found a blazer pattern that had a cut on standing collar and two piece sleeve. So I traced this and altered it to the desired shape and proportions.

The construction was rather simple, as the striped twill was sturdy enough to not needing any interfacings. Also there are no fancy details like pockets or a lapel collar, you know, stuff that isn't difficult but takes a lot of time ^^. The lining is made of left over fabric of Mommy's wedding dress (don't worry I didn't cut up the dress, the fabric is still left from when she made it... so it's older than me)

So the whole thing was done between Friday night (pattern making) and Sunday afternoon.
And this is what I got then:


Except from the basic torso shape and the sleeve there's not much left of the original blazer pattern. The waist was shortened in the back and sides, the front edge shaped in this huge "lapel". When sewing it up and trying it on inbetween I needed to make a few alterations. The shoulder was way too wide and the sleeve cap too high. So I put it on the dolly and pinned it the right way, cut the excess off and sewed it in again. Also I had to reshape the back bottom edge a bit as it sloped downwards at the center back... I made it straight, cut a new facing and adjusted the lining.
But I also learned something new: With the cut on standing collar there is a dart following the line of the colloar downwards to where usually the lapels turn. I had made such a dart before but different. The instructions of Burda said to sew the whole thing, dart-collar-dart, in one go. I was a bit sceptical if this would work, but with a little clipping of seam allowances it worked very well... Awesome, I will keep that in mind.

I'm really happy with the result and the best thing is- it fit's *yay*. I was afraid that it might not fit her, as she has a rather broad back an much more chest than I've got.

Still Burda won't be my most favourite pattern companion I'm afraid. I haven't made overly bad experiences so far, but there are always things that confuse me and make me doubting the fit. Here it was the arm cycle. The front was really hollow and rounded while the back was rather flat and making a wide back. The shape was kind of reverse to what I'm used to from my pattern system, where the back arm cycle is bigger and more rounded than the front cycle. When trying it on at the end it felt pretty tight around the back when moving my arms forward. So I was afraid that it might be too tight for sisterli's broader back.
Also I had to think alot about what size to trace... Usually Burda (the pattern in magazines, not the ones to buy extra) runs rather big, so I traced two sizes smaller than the size chart told me and added a bit width in the center back and at the sides right under the arms, to meet my sister's chest measurement better and leave enough ease.

I'm really glad that sisterli likes it and it fits, I hope to get a pic of her wearing it soon. So far it had been too cold up there in Finland...maybe when she moves to Spain in August she'll be able to wear it *lol*

Okay that was my little "stripey intermezzo". Stay tuned for something unmentionable victorian soon.

2 comments:

  1. Yeah, it's still to coooold here...but it fits...only the sleaves are a bit to wide :/ :)

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