Monday, January 24, 2011

Chemise done

Hello dears,

another weekend has passed and another garment is finished:
An 1880's chemise.
I took the pattern from "Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol.1" and surprise, surprise I didn't make any alterations in the measurements this time. I only shortened the body and sleeves afterwards by sewing in tucks as trimming.
I struggled in finding a fabric in my statsh that was big enough... unbelievable how much fabric a chemise swallows. But in the end the 2m of white cotton bunting did it, although I had to add a seam down the central back.
Also I had some difficulties in sewing in the sleeves, as they are shaped differently from modern ones... I had done all seams so far only using the overlock machine, so I had to open the side seams a bit again to make the sleeves fit and set them in using the normal sewing machine. And I had to do it in two steps: a) sew the straight part under the arm and then b) cut the seamallowance of the armhole to sew the rest of the sleeve. But it worked... still I will do a chemise with a simpler (or no) sleeve next time ;)
For trimming I used (next to four tucks at the bottom and the sleeves) the same lace as I had used für the petticoat. I decorated the cleavage, hem and sleeve hem. Also through the lace at the cleavage and the bottom I threaded a dark red satin ribbon.
Okay enough words... here's the pic:
Now I've got about a meter (from a 10m roll) of the lace left... should be just enough for the hem of the drawers.
I hope you like it (feel free to click one of those little boxes below ;) )
Thanks for watching, see you soon.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Fantail Skirt done

Hello my fellow followers,

Just a quick update post today.
I finished the Fantail Skirt just about half an hour ago, so I thought I quickly share the images with you.

The gathering in the front turned out even better than in my sketch ^^ I'm very happy with it.
The whole skirt including the underskirt/lining is really heavy, but it definitely needs the stiff, heavy base to fall nice. It's been a good decision to make it this way and not just the wool skirt alone.
Already during the week I cut and overlocked the pieces. So I could start sewing yesterday. I joined the panels, sew the darts, attached the drawstring and somehow got the 50cm folded down to 7cm for each back panel. It took me a few tries and combinations though ;).
Then I got a bit crazy and decided to handsew the hem ô.O. The good 3.5m were done in about 2 hours while watching TV *lol*
Today I joined the two skirts and attached the waistband, it's also handfinished on the inside.
At last I put the skirt on the dolly and pinned the gathers in place. I call it the pineapple look.
What do you think about it? Like it or not?

Okay, that's it for today. Thanks for watching, see you next time.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Pin, Pleat, Press, Pin, Pleat, Press,...

Hey folks!

So another weekend has passed and yet again I have something to show you.
I've started with the fantail skirt, again alot of calculations. I decided to mix the patterns from the "Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol1." and the TV 225. The latter I actually just sketched from pictures shown in a WIP quite some time ago.
This is what I want the skirt to look like in the end (on the left you can se the pic form the book)
And this is how I mixed the patterns

I added darts to the front and side gore to a) have it better fitting at the upper hips and b) take out some width from the waist already. Otherwise I would have had to get the remaining 60cm (as indicated by the drawing) in 3cm of the waistband... nearly impossible. So now I only need to get them into 7cm band *lol*. Also I decided to only make it 50cm wide. Snowlady was so kind to measure the back piece from the TV pattern for comparision.
Next I changed the box pleat in the back to a gore (like with the TV pattern) and removed the train (our streets are too dirty for that ^^). Also you can see a little sketch for the skirt lining/foundation. This is what I actually made over the weekend. I wanted to make it first before the top layer, to measure how long the skirt can be in the back to just touch the ground.

Saturday I cut the pieces (I made the back panels 10cm narrower), serged them and joined the upper part as well as the flounce pieces... they were 5 full breadths of fabric, meaning 1,50m wide... so the flounce has a total length of 7,50m *ugh*
Sunday I started with hemming the flounce- always do that before pleating or gathering or you'll go nuts ;)
Then I went into the pleating marathon. Pin, pleat, press, pin, pleat, press... a good 80 times... *ugh* took me about two hours to get the 7,5m down to 2,5m...
At least the progress was very well noticable *lol*
Next was fixing the pleats and joining the upper part with the flounce
Now after the pleats were tamed, the skirt was gathered onto the waistband (the back panels shouldn't have been a cm wider, the 40cm was the maximum to be gathered down to 7cm).
The waistband is only a plain cottontape, rather makeshift, just to hold the gathers in place and to pin it on the dolly. I will probably simply sew it into the real waistband with the whole lining skirt.
So to make long words short, here the pictures of the finished lining:

As a sidenote: both fabics are black, only the upper one is cotton, the lower one is polyester. It amazes me everytime how many shades of a "non-color" there are ^^

Okay that's it for this week.
Stay tuned for more and tell me what you think ;)

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Long time no see ;)

It's already been last year *lol*

Hello my dears,

I wish you a very Happy New Year! may all your wishes and dreams for 2011 come true and may all days be full of sunshine and glitter :)

So I used the longer weekend to make up the underskirt I had mentioned in my last post. I tried to not hink about it too much and just do it... but yeah, I still think I thought about it too much... I show you what I mean:
The pattern is from "Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol.1" -not that difficult to beginn with... I checked the measurements to see how it would fit and decided to take a few centimeters from each panel as the waist would have hardly fit into the waistband with my size. I need to remember next time to check the hip measurement after drawing the 1:1 version, as a "medium" size in victorian terms, doesn't mean "medium" in 2011 terms. Well, the final skirt is a bit tight around the hips, when I pull the drawstring in the back tight. So maybe better make the waist dartlike smaller... above the hips to fit into the waistband then...
Ah well, lesson learned, and actually it's great to know that the patterns seem to fit my size quite well...
But back to overworking brain... so while the pattern is rather simple to follow I had to think abit about how to make the flounce...
This were my detailed notes... spent way too much time thinking and planning about it.... but in the end it proved well, as it fit very well with my fabric. Not much left of it, now ^^
So I chose the lace and cut our the pieces. I had actually planned to make a more detailed work-in-progress, but the next pictures I took then, were these:

It turned out not as full as in the sketch, I guess also the fabric is too soft. Maybe for the future I'll add more width towards the bottom of the back piece, so the drawstring can gather more material.
But it makes a nice underskirt nonetheless. Only I notice just now that I sewed in a nasty fold when attaching the flounce, I need to fix it tomorrow (or better later today ^^)

All in all it was a nice two-day-shortcut project. I need to do stuff like that more often and not spend weeks or longer on one thing...

Ah well, I gotta go to bed.
Have a great day, see ya soon ;)