Wednesday, May 5, 2010

You can see something...

Hello my fellow readers!

It's time for another update on my progress.

So last Thursday and Friday I cut out all needed pieces for a first fitting, including their interfacing and used the free weekend *yay for May Bank holiday* to sew everything together.

pieces laid out on the woolfabric

The fabric is a wool mix with a bit stretch in dark brown with red pinstripes. I got it some years ago from the Hugo Boss fabric outlet. I always planned on using it for either business wear or something late victorian... now it's both in one... sorta *lol*

Saturday I got all pieces together, so I could start the Sunday with ironing all seams and have a first fitting. (I actually had wanted to get some more done, but after a spontanaeious clubbing session Friday night I only got up around 11am ^^)

First fitting impressions:
Please excuse the bad pictures. I had to take them without flash because of the mirror and brighten them alot.

it's fitting quite well and I only took out a centimeter at the very top of the waistband

jacket (without sleeves first)

I already pinned the alterations on my left side

the right side without alterations

the back

You can see the general fit is alright, but I had to shorten the darts in the front as they were ending right on top of the bust. Also there was too much width at the second dart from the waist to the hem. Also the back down the waist was quite wide, so I took out the prior added width in the central back seam as well as about one centimeter at the hem of each seam and 6mm at the waist per seam
The alterations are done here. It still looks a bit weird around the bust, but after ironing a couple times over it again, it's much better now. I had also taken a centimeter away from the side seam waist down, but after the dart was sewn I added it back.

This second fitting of the jacket was also the first time I recognized that the waist of the jacket is quite high... too high. I also noticed that, when I wore it with the skirt, the hemline hardly covers the joining seam of skirt and waistband (even including the 1cm seam allowance). But I had drafted a 3cm coverage (without seam allowance). Even pulling the skirt a little higher didn't help much.
Yet I decided to wait for the sleeves until I made a final conclusion about this.

So Monday morning I got the sleeves sewn in and fitted again, the shoulder pads are also pinned in place.

Again the general fit is alright, but it's a little tight around the upper arm, so I'm gonna make a new pattern for it and arrange the width better. I also will cut the armhole a little bit lower at the side seam (1cm) for more comfort. And maaaybe add a little length at the underarm seam for more free moving of the arm.

And a full pic using the timer on my cam.

Three side view on the dummy ( I need to take care of those stupid wrinkles in the back before going on, I already changed in the paper pattern)

So yesterday and today morning I put on the jacket again and came to the conclusion that I need to lower the waistline... it's about 1,5cm too high for my natural waist.
I really don't know how this could happen, as my basic pattern was well fitted by my sewing teacher about four years ago. And I'm not growing anymore (I checked tonight, same 1,62m as back then^^).
I compared the side seam length with the measurements I took for my corsetry patternblock late last year and they also indicate that my waistline has to be lowered by 1,5-2cm in my pattern.
Maybe gravity pulled my pelvis bones down *lol*

However I'm gonna make the lining pieces etc. matching for the test model first, so I can complete it. I only make a new sleeve if the fabric allows.
I lowered the waist by a centimeter in the model pattern already, but if I've got enough time left before the exam I'm gonna draft a new jacket pattern with the right waistline and make another mock-up from muslin. Just the fashion layer to confirm the fit and then transfer the right pattern pieces onto the cardboard for the exam.

I hope to get the test model done by Whitsun latest, this should leave me enough time for the new jacket pattern.
Also I hope to get the skirt finished this weekend. I only have to draft one additional piece for the lining as the others are just the same as the fashion fabric, except for the hem allowance.
I'm gonna draft all additional pieces tomorrow morning, so I can cut them on Saturday after work.

Next week I want to trace through all additional pieces for the jacket and make up the final design for the embroidery for the collar and cuffs.
As it's Ascension Day next Thursday and I'm free from work I want to use the whole day for embroidering. I hope the time will be enough... it has to be, as I shouldn't need more time in the exam, too.

If everything goes as planned (somewhat at least) I should be able to complete the model within the 10 remaining days till Whitsun...

Okay so, now you know what happened so far and what's the plan for the next weeks.
Thanks for reading, comments and critique are very welcome.
Have a great time and see you soon


  1. This is going to be a lovely outfit! I'm looking forward to seeing it progress.

  2. Thank you, Jo :)
    I'm so glad I made this test piece as there are sooo many things that need to be changed or improved. At the moment I'm fighting with the ruffles for the skirt... they just aren't fluffy ^^