Sunday, May 23, 2010

I'm done *wohoo* ...Yet there's still so much to do...

Hello my fellow readers!

So I can proudly announce that I am done with my test model *wohoo*
Yesterday I added the buttons and buttonholes and pressed the whole thing once more (still the hem is looing a bit weird).



The buttons I had actually bought for the winter coat I made last year, but then had found better ones. So these buttons were bought to be black, but somehow they melt into this brownish colour that fits very well to the fashion fabric. I could have used smaller buttons also, but they are almost as big as the "real" buttons for the exam, so I took them.
"Buttonholing" took me longer than I had thought/intended, meaning that I need to practise that also before the exam.
Still when I checked my time list later it looked quite good. If everything goes somewhat smooth and nothing really bad happens I should be fine in the exam. Also it looks like I will be able to split the embroidery session on two days. This will hopefully be better for my head.
So in theory everything is great *lol*

But before I can go into the exam and prove my theory right, there are quite some things to be done and changes made.
I need to:
- lower the waistline in my jacket pattern, make it new if neccessary and time allows
- change the front piece, so the facing will be cut on fold (means: glueing them together at the front edge, so two pieces become one), do the same with the front hem facings -> this is neccessary to reduce the big bulk I got when all facings were added and then turned, so instead of crossing seams I will then only have the one at the hem
- make the front flaps smaller 1,5cm will be enough (now I had 2cm)
- cut the hem facing higher towards the central back seam, so the lining can be attached smoother (it gave me a little fit with the test model, so now I aim for a square angle, or at least close to square^^)
- make the hem allowance of the skirt lining as small as possible to prevent wrinkling because of the godets
- make the side seam a little bit longer over the hips, maybe even lower the front and back a bit (the fabric surely will shrink a bit while being interfaced)
- try to make the pocket bags a tad bigger then, to have a tissue fitting inside^^
- draft a new outer cuff, getting a bigger facing for inside the sleeve then and cut down the lining, so showing of the lining will be almost impossible then
- not to forget adding all needed turn of cloth additions *very important*
- check all seam lengths, mark positions etc.
- make all card board pattern pieces including marks, seam allowance and what not
- practice: weltpockets, embroidering, button holes

right before the exam:
- iron fashion and lining fabric with hot steam to prevent too much shrinking
- cut all allowed pieces from fashion fabric and interfacing
- interface and mark all pieces
- lay out the remaining pieces on all fabrics and interfacing, take pics to learn how to lay out the pieces (saves time in the exam)
- fill out the required time and documentary lists for the exam
- make copies of all documents needed for the exam
- pack all needed items, clean and oil sewing machine

You see that's quite a list, but not all points will take much time and many can be done in one session.

Today I already altered my basic pattern and lengthened the part above the waist by 1,5cm. I made a mock up to comfirm the fit and now the waist sits where it is supposed to be.

I also pinned the hip area as it usually ends a bit too wide in the upper part. So I flatened out the hips and added 0,5cm at the side seam at the bottom. (you see there it is quite tight).
Don't get irritated by the width around the waist, it's a jacket (although tight), so a little ease is needed.
I'm happy that I seem to have gotten the right amount of length, as there's no bunching and horizontal wrinkling in the back.

So for the exam pattern this means, that I will cut the pieces open at the waist line, squeeze 1,5cm paper inbetween and smooth out the lines. Everything else should work still.

Okay that's it for the moment.
I'm laying down a bit as I'm just getting a migraine *ugh*
Thanks for reading, have a great time

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